Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge 22.8.12

We booked into the National Park campground, set up and unhitched the vans. Once again hot showers and flush loos. No doubt the WA National Parks are a step ahead of the other states.

After a quick lunch we drove the 16 kms to Tunnel Creek and headed off with backpacks, headlamps and torches to explore. It's an easy walk of 750mtrs one way, except for the scramble over boulders at the entry to the tunnel. From then on the walk is along the creek bed in almost complete darkness. Water levels varied from ankle deep to hip-high for the shortest of us (Nanette), with sand and rock underfoot. There are stalactites and stalagmites, one small one reminiscent of the tiers at Pamulkale in Turkey. We saw the Ghost bats hanging from the roof of the tunnel and four small freshwater crocodiles. Small pockets in the stone ceiling were full of grass and debri left by floodwater. Half way along the roof of the tunnel has collapsed and we emerged into bright sunlight briefly, before walking again into blackness. It's a most unusual experience..quite spooky, and we were glad we had done it once before with a guide with our 'Butterworth Reunion Friends' in 2007.

 

Back to camp for cold beers, showers and dinner cooked on the campfire...spaghetti-Bol!

We spend a lot of time viewing the night sky and have learned a lot thanks to resident expert Kerry. There is a triangle of stars which includes Mars, and we regularly check the configuration to see the changes. Sometimes Mars is the point of the triangle and sometimes it lines up with the other two stars in a straight line. Stargazing is our most common form of night-time entertainment apart from watching the 'bush TV'. ( campfire)!

Next morning we packed up before walking into Windjana Gorge. It's a spectacular 3.5km gorge forged by the Lennard River through an ancient Devonian reef. As we walked into the gorge we could see the height of the reef, now above water. It"s amazing. We saw lots of 'Freshies' lounging around at the water's edge and walked further in to where the flying fox colony is. You can smell it before you see it and the trees were dotted with squabbling creatures wrapping and re-wrapping their wings around themselves in an effort to sleep. Below them in the river were very large Barramundi and cruising crocs. We searched in vain for the Olive Pythons which we were told were coiled in the trees nearby, waiting for a feast of bat meat. There were lots of double-barred finches in the trees as we walked along too. The walk from the campground to the gorge and back is along a track through savanna grasses. They are beautiful in the sunlight, bending with the breezes.

Back to camp for showers and into the last leg of the Gibb R R to Derby. There was some dirt and then onto the blacktop at last! What joy to have a smooth ride. The road is mostly one lane of tar so we had to move over several times for road trains to let them pass but the reduction in dust was very welcome.

 

 

Derby WA. 23.8.12

Telecommunications at last so we could talk to family! 

We have been here four nights in this neat little town and the blokes (and girls sometimes) have been crabbing off the wharf. Last night we feasted on the bounty of sweet mud crabs. Delicious!

The tidal variation is up to 11 metres which is enormous, so you imagine how far down the crab traps had to be lowered... not to mention how many escaped before we could get them up!!!

We are constantly amazed by the variety of camping solutions that are on the road...from one person swags to mega buses hauling separate cars and/or boats. We also note that the busiest place in a c'van park is the laundry. There are lots of young o/s people and quite a few families with very young children. People are very relaxed and friendly and ready to swap information on where they have been, road conditions and other useful ideas.

 

 

Imintji Store

This is a general store on the Gibb R Rd with fuel and mechanical repairs servicing travelers and an aboriginal community. We stocked up on a few fresh veggies and treated ourselves to ice creams....Splices .. What a treat! We ate them in the picnic area under shady trees. 

Adcock River Bush Camp

We met a woman from Broome who recommended this place alongside the river. The track in was heavily rutted in places with high grass and boabs for until we came to a clearing with shady trees. Unfortunately the water was low and not good for swimming but Glenn and I managed a dip all the same. We stayed two nights and all lazed around reading most of the time and planing the next meal. Oh! What hardship.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Timber Creek 27.7.12

This was a pleasant campground behind the Timber Creek Roadhouse where they have a croc-feeding session each afternoon. We all stood on a small bridge over the creek and one of the staff dangled chunks of meat attached to a pole just above water level. The well- fed crocs cruised by and then jumped for the meat. We had a really close look at them and the kids had a go at holding the pole. Each experience like this increases our knowledge and understanding, not to mention respect, for these ancient creatures.

 

Bitter Springs Mataranka 1.7.12

What a beautiful place.. Thanks Keith for the tip. We stayed three days here spending endless hours floating downstream in these magnificent hot springs, mostly on our backs looking up at the blue sky. It was our first three day break in ages..."even when you work you get weekends" said Glenn!

We also were lucky to there for Territory Day and had an entertaining night at the oval watching the fireworks which were excellent. The official ones were contested by the unofficial ones much to the delight of the entire township plus tourists. When things looked like getting out of hand the police car in the middle of the oval sounded its siren. The ladies of the town provided a three course meal for the princely sum of $12 pp and a memorable night was had by all.

 

 

These termite mounds were everywhere. They have a folded surface so there is always a section of the nest which is shaded.

 

Daly Water Pub

This is an historic town with a pub, an interesting main street and a quirky sense of humour.

It boasts of being the first in Australia to have an international airport.

A butcherbird sits on the bar and the RFDS donation box is an old toaster!

 

Timber Creek 27.7.12

This was a pleasant campground behind the Timber Creek Roadhouse where they have a croc-feeding session each afternoon. We all stood on a small bridge over the creek and one of the staff dangled  chunks of meat attached to a pole just above water level. The well- fed crocs cruised by and then jumped for the meat. We had a really close look at them and the kids had a go at holding the pole. Each experience like this increases our knowledge and understanding, not to mention respect, for these ancient creatures.

Kununurra 30.7.12

KUNUNURRA 30.7.12

We did the 60 kms from Zebra Rock Mine in the morning and are now in Western Australia. Quarantine restrictions are severe and we were searched before the border but had eaten or cooked all our fruit and vegetables so no problems.

Our fellow travelers organized a caravan park and Glenn and I went straight to the refrigeration man to have our fridge checked. It needed adjustment so hope it will be fine now.

 

Our caravan park is on the river and very pleasant and the Crimson Finches are everywhere as are Rainbow Bee-eaters. Happy hour and watching the sunset over the river is becoming a ritual.

 



While Paul and Kerry went to Pernululu (Bungle Bungles), the rest of us went towards Wyndham and out to Parry's lagoon where the birds were myriad. We camped at Parry Farm Resort and enjoyed the luxury of the palm fringed pool despite the very cold water.

We are back in Kununurra where temperatures have been mid thirties with cool nights. We plan to get necessary permits and passes and leave on Tuesday. We are headed along the Gibb R Rd, then up to the Mitchell Plateau, then the Aboriginal settlement of Kalumbaru for some Barramundi. Then south again and back along the Gib R R to Broome.We expect to cover about 1000kms of dirt roads before we reach Brome.

We will be out of contact for 3-4 weeks.

 

Zebra Rock Mine 28.7.12

 

A number of people had highly recommended this place to to us and they hadn't exaggerated. A very hard-working couple are putting everything into it to make it a success and it is very interesting. They mine Zebra rock which is exists only in the NT of Australia and run a gallery and a campground as well during the dry season.

 

 

Their wetland tour on Lake Argyle is remarkable for the absence of unending commentary and instead people are encouraged to look and listen. We saw freshwater crocs sunning themselves on logs and birds in the thousands. They pulled up on a grassy island and served drinks and nibbles in generous amounts while we mixed and mingled and soaked up the serenity of the place. Once back on board Kim moved the boat to a place where we watched the sunset over the wetland. It was blood red and brilliant. Meanwhile most of the birds had returned to their perches on the dead trees. There is a lot of water there but it was 11 mtrs higher during the big wet!

Kim is a local who lived in the valley as a child on a cattle station before the dam was built. That homestead is now underwater.

We spent the rest of our time learning about zebra rock and fossicking in the creek bed and banks, eating the scones and cream made daily and generally relaxing. We were sorry it was too windy for the fishing trip where we had expected to catch the catfish from Lake Argyle. We did sample some of it as fish and chips was a speciality of campground, cooked on demand.

 

Katherine 20.7.12

 

Next morning we headed for Katherine. Paul's car was playing up so the men drained water from his fuel twice along the way. When we reached Katherine we went straight to the Information Centre which was extremely busy. We opted for Springvale Homestead Park, a bit in need of a new amenities block but full of character, history and quite lovely. ..it has a billabong, home to Elvis a freshwater croc, turtles, waterlillies and fat ducks waddling around begging for food.

 



The grounds of the old homestead ( oldest standing in the NT) have magnificent old Indian Raintrees, gnarled and spreading welcome shade. They are each named after the children who were born there.

 

M

We rang Eric for his birthday, and Glenn cooked a tasty beef curry for dinner much to the envy of the other four who had grills!

We relaxed there for six days spending many hours in the swimming pool which was fed by a hot spring, reading, catching up with family and friends which is often not possible due to lack of mobile service.

Glenn fitted a new water pump and everyone bought /replaced fuel filters. The markets had fresh food and veggies and the Katherine show was on . We went in the afternoon especially to see the Rodeo..a first for all of us. We perched like chooks in the stands overlooking the arena and were entertained by clowns with off-color jokes and gestures, skilled horsemen and bulls and broncos bucking their riders off into mid-air. We were coated in dust and decided that we had a great night!,

A highlight of our time in Katherine was a canoe trip up to the second gorge. We all went in three double canoes, enjoyed the paddling and the scenery. We saw some Freshwater crocs, lots of birdlife ESP the beautifully coloured Rainbow Bee-eater and then had a swim. As the tour boats went past people waved and some couldn't resist the two- armed croc gesture while we were in the water. We weren't worried... We know we're not on their menu!

The sprinklers in the campground gave us great opportunity to watch the birds and we enjoyed the freshness after such a long time without rain and often with limited water. The days are warm and sunny and the nights clear and cool. Ideal. No wonder the Grey Nomads are in here in astounding numbers.

 

Madrigal -Edith Springs 19.7.12

 

We had planned to stay in the campground but it was full so we went in for a swim below the falls. They have made a lot of improvements by grassing a lot of the surrounding area and planting trees. The carpark caters for large tour buses but the camping is limited. A shame we thought as a lot of people wanting to camp had to move on.. Including us. We headed towards The Stuart Hwy and found a bush camp on high ground, lit a cooking fire and had a lovely night. Clear and bright.

 

Kakadu National Park 14.7.12

Jabiru.


Caught up with the others at Jabiru after going to Fogg Dam and seeing the wetlands there and the amazing variety of birds along the dam wall.... Including Jacana and many others.

We did a short walk . Mostly boardwalk..through the swamp area to the pontoon. Hot. Saw a Bush Stone Curlew at eye level, watching us carefully and probably annoyed that we disturbed his sleep! A very peaceful billabong.

We had 3 days in the campground at Jabiru and then drove to UBIRR on the edge of Arnhem Land. The walk into Ubirr is very lovely and the view from the top magic! There is a strong sense of timelessness and serenity as you look towards the Arnhem Land escarpment over the wetlands which are so lush and green, and then backwards over the stone country which is so contrasting in its ruggedness. This was our second time in this place and again it had a power to move us.

 

NOURLANGIE ROCK

This rock is a huge shady overhang which has significant Aboriginal art work. It was an important meeting place at the bottom of the escarpment.

The handrails around the art sites are made from timber and have a wonderful patina where they have worn smooth from the touch of many hands.

We camped at a place called Mardugal in the national park and then went to Twin Falls and Jim Jim Falls.. Both magnificent. The track in was strictly 4x4 and very slow driving.

The trip to Twin Falls was by boat and then on foot into the gorge with a view of the falls ahead as we walked closer. We didn't swim there because of the crocodiles.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jim Jim falls were at the end of a long scramble over boulders which tested all of us but the reward at the end was stunning. We swam in the plunge pool right up under the falls and floated on our backs looking up at the towering escarpment on three sides. The water was cold but refreshing after all our labours to reach it. We'd have stayed longer but the light was fading and we didn't want to be rock-hopping in the dark!

 

Wet!

 

Darwin 4.7.12

It was hard to leave our lovely campsite at the springs but had to be in Darwin to fly out the next night. We arrived at Lib and Eric's house and were greeted by their son Luke and his wife of two months Talia. They gave us free reign of the house and were happy to have our car and van parked under the carport while we went to Singapore to visit the Smiths. We had dinner at the Trailer Boat Club and watched the magnificent sunset over the beach with the rest of our fellow travelers plus Ken' s brother Mark and Paul and Kerry's son Grahame who had flown to Darwin from Hong Kong where he lives, to visit them.

We watched the State of Origin and wonder why we bother when a three man strip of the ball goes unnoticed and results in a try for Qld!!!!

Next day we had very short, very overdue haircuts, packed for Singapore and headed for the airport.

 

Singapore 5.7.12

 

We had a good flight with Jet Star and more legroom than we expected. We arrived in Singapore on time, had no problems through customs and immigration and caught a taxi to Libby and Eric's condo. We arrived at 10pm just after they arrived home from work as planned. Then followed hugs and kisses and a veritable talkfest until we realized we were all hungry. We went to their local Makan to eat excellent food. It was great to see them so happy, healthy and relaxed.

The next six days were crammed with activity and late nights.

We explored Little Arab street and poked through shops with every kind of fabric you could imagine. There were vividly colored saris, beads and

baubles of every description. The precinct around the mosque was busy with men making their way to Friday prayers.

We ate a delicious lunch of murtabak upstairs at Zam Zams before Lib and Eric went to work and we continued taking in the visual richness of the area.

Next day we negotiated the MTR ( mass transit rail) without a problem after being tutored by Lib and Eric the day before and found our way to Little India. Explored interesting little shops and found a corner table and ordered cold beer while we waited for L and E who were meeting us after work. Dined on delicious Nepalese food at The Everest Restaurant.

Next day we ventured down to the Marina Bay area and were amazed by the development of the area since we were there last for the Inaugural Int. Breast cancer survivor's regatta. There is now a double helix bridge spanning a waterway ( designed and engineered by an Australian company), a museum and the Marina Bay Sands Hotel which has a boat-shaped roof above three towering pillars. The shopping complex has all the high end traders.. Gucci, Prada, etc. etc. plus a canal, arched bridge, and gondolas a'la Venice!!! Phenomenal! All of this development is visible from the Singapore Flyer.. Highest in the world to date.

We then found our way to to L and E's workplace and saw them in action with their classes of 8-12 or so students.. Poor things!! And then went to dinner with some of the staff. Among them were Wayne and Pauline Ash who were fellow teachers in Butterworth and it was good to catch up on all their news. Also met a colleague of Glenn' s from the Central Coast.Small world!!

Next day we braved Bukit Timah- the highest peak on the island with L and E' s walking group. It was mostly uphill and then of course downhill through picturesque tropical rainforest and we enjoyed it immensely. We spent sometime soaking out the tiredness in the spa at the Condo. Dinner that night was at Chomp Chomp Hawker stalls where we ate satays, been hoon and stingray flaps which we first had in Sarawak. Delicious!

Tuesday was along overdue sleep-in for us all after which we went to the new Gardens by the Sea. The government is building a 'city within a garden' and very successfully I think. Although still under development, the area is brilliant. There are two indoor, domed areas. One is a rainforest area and the other a series of gardens typical of many countries.. Eg..Austalia with Gum trees, Wattles, boabs, bottle brushes and kangaroo paw. There is also a series of super trees which are huge sculptures in tree form which will eventually be covered with plants. They are absolutely amazing and on such a grand scale.

That night Libby was committed to her book club so Eric took us to Raffles Quay where we had a cold one by the river and then ate at Lau Pa Sat which offers hawker food at ground level with the towering business centre all around us! Fabulous.

All too soon our last day arrived. We spent the morning relaxing together before Land E had to leave for work. Lib helped me set up a blog ( thanks so much Lib). The men organized digital books, music and movies. We had last minute instructions on how to leave the keys behind and then went to the local Makan for Chicken rice lunch. We said our farewells to our lovely friends who had to go to work and we went back to their condo to pack.

I left behind a pair of much loved and well-worn shoes and am glad to hear they have a new owner. Aren't they comfortable Lib??? So glad they fit!

We got to the airport with time to spare, had an uneventfull flight to Darwin, taxi to Luke and Talia's and crept into bed in the van about 2am.. How lucky we are to see such special friends Libby and Eric in their new environment.. Terrific hosts as usual.

 

Darwin 13.7.12

 

Big repack and cleaning of the van.

Washing day.

Pizza on the back deck

Food shopping.

 

Bitter Springs Mataranka 1.7.12

What a beautiful place.. Thanks Keith for the tip. We stayed three days here spending endless hours floating downstream in these magnificent hot springs, mostly on our backs looking up at the blue sky. It was our first three day break in ages..."even when you work you get weekends" said Glenn!

We also were lucky to there for Territory Day and had an entertaining night at the oval watching the fireworks which were excellent. The official ones were contested by the unofficial ones much to the delight of the entire township plus tourists. When things looked like getting out of hand the police car in the middle of the oval sounded its siren. The ladies of the town provided a three course meal for the princely sum of $12 pp and a memorable night was had by all.

Devils Marbles

Devil's Marbles.

When we arrived there was no room in the NP campground so we parked ourselves in the driveway with a great view of the Devil's Marbles. We clamboured to the top where the views were expansive and then watched the sunset.They are quite an amazing arrangement of huge rocks balanced precariously on one another.

We are finding that the campgrounds are usually full by mid-afternoon and we have to bush camp which we don't mind at all. It's just staggering the numbers of travelers there are, especially during the school hols which have just ended thank goodness.

We saw an interesting manouvre by a three vehicle drilling team on the road today. The team consisted of two huge trucks carrying the drill and a smaller car. Glenn slowed down for them and The three of them overtook us. Then they couldn't get past Ken so the small car overtook Ken and immediately slowed down, which forced Ken to slow considerably. Then the two heavy vehicles could pass Ken! Clever!

 

 

Gem Tree

Gem Tree 28th June

 

We stayed in a huge park here with a great campfire and fruit trees which we were told to help ourselves to. Beautiful oranges and lemons.

We booked a tour to go fossiking for garnets and were provided with all the tools we needed and were given a crash course in identifying gems and the soil to find them in. Five hours later, covered in mud, hot and dusty, we returned with our treasures. All of us had 'cutters' and were pleased with our efforts, but no one made a fortune!

 

Alice Springs

Alice Springs 24th June

 

 

 

First port of call was the Araluen centre where the famous Beanie Festival was being held. Fab, creative beanies of all shapes and colors and selling like hot cakes. We watched local Aboriginal women learning how to needle felt and looked at all the lovely things for sale.. Hand spun wool too. Once the Aboriginal women learn skills like these the can make goods which bring in an income for them.

Very cold o/n temperatures down to -4 one night and we had the heater on in the van.

We spent time in galleries and saw some of Namitjira's beautiful watercolours. The museum had an excellent audio tour on the beginnings of life on the planet with relevant exhibits and a day at the Desert Park was very interesting. The bird show was great and the nocturnal house had lots of night creatures on exhibition.

As we were leaving the c'van park in Alice we had our first drama!

Ken noticed a bolt hanging loose from his suspension and we found that it had snapped and was just hanging loose. After carefully reversing back onto his site and inspecting the damage a quick trip was made to find parts ( plus extras just to be safe). He and Glenn did the repair and off we went thinking we were so lucky it hadn't come adrift at speed.

 

Ellery Big Hole

This was a very lovely spot with a deep (cold) swimming hole, baby ducks, falcons soaring high above the cliff tops and a NP camping area which was very pleasant.... Loos, water and free barbecues.

Kings Canyon

21st June Kings Canyon

 

We loved Kings Canyon.

Glenn and I did the KingsCanyon rim walk.. Quite challenging uphill to begin with and a generally rocky walk which took us 5hrs. We took our time to look around and admire the beautiful Holly Grevillea in full flower and the unusual Spinifex Pidgeon which was eating our crumbs as we lunched at the stunning Garden Of Eden Waterhole. The Pidgeon has striking markings and a very tall topknot.

We then drove the Merindee Loop rd and explored Redbank Gorge.. A beautiful small gorge with interesting rock formations, the Ormiston Gorge and then Serpentine Gorge with its deep, beautiful waterhole.The climb to the top was the most difficult to date but the views spectacular.

We bush camped that night and our fire struggled to ward off the cold while we cooked. Next morning we went to Standley Chasm and got there at midday with the sun directly overhead so it's rays penetrated to the floor of the Chasm. The colors were vibrant reds and oranges as the sun hit the steep walls. Striking.

We drove on to Alice towards through magnificent countryside. I was amazed by the beauty of the West Macdonald Ranges. My expectations of Alice and surrounding country were of red dust and flat terrain. Not so! Rich and green.

 

Kata Tjuta -Olga's

 

Uluru

 

Kings Canyon

21st June Kings Canyon

We loved Kings Canyon. 

Glenn and I did the KingsCanyon rim walk.. Quite challenging uphill to begin with and a generally rocky walk which took us 5hrs. We took our time to look around and admire the beautiful Holly Grevillea in full flower and the unusual Spinifex Pidgeon which was eating our crumbs as we lunched at the stunning Garden Of  Eden Waterhole. The Pidgeon has striking markings and a very tall topknot.

We then drove the Merindee Loop rd and explored Redbank Gorge.. A beautiful small gorge with interesting rock formations, the Ormiston Gorge and then Serpentine Gorge with its deep, beautiful waterhole.The climb to the top was the most difficult to date but the views spectacular.

We bush camped that night and our fire struggled to ward off the cold while we cooked. Next morning we went to Standley Chasm and got there at midday with the sun directly overhead so it's rays penetrated to the floor of the Chasm. The colors were vibrant reds and oranges as the sun hit the steep walls. Striking.

We drove on to Alice towards through magnificent countryside. I was amazed by the beauty of the West Macdonald Ranges. My expectations of Alice and surrounding country were of red dust and flat terrain. Not so! Rich and green.