TASMANIA. Hobart.

North of Hobart we spied some interesting, large sculptures in a garden next to a magnificent Georgian house. As we went past I saw the main gate was open, so we did an about-turn on the highway.... no mean feat with a caravan attached! We wandered in and were met by the owner who generously gave us a brief tour of his stunning property, the gate of which was open only because he was expecting a delivery! He explained that his work is largely commercial, but he also showed us a series of bird baths, some of which were fountains as well, which are on a smaller scale.

We are based in a caravan park near the famous MONA and have been food shopping today.

The next day was spent exploring the waterfront and Salamanca Place, poking through the interesting shops in the arts precinct. It was great to see a huge collection of Deeping Dolls, made by Jill Roberts. The range includes families, kings and queens of England and many others, painted in fine detail and so collectible. We also shopped in Kathmandu and bought a new sleeping bag for Glenn and a lightweight cabin bag for me.

During our meanderings we happened upon the Hobart Real Tennis Club and wandered in to watch a game in progress. One of the members came to sit beside us behind the netting, and explained the rudiments of the game. It is quite a bit like squash in that the ball rebounds of all walls, and some rooftops, but it is scored in a similar way to tennis with some major handicapping to allow a novice to be competitive with a champion. It was played by royals and aristocrats and has a long history and is the oldest of five in the country.

The next day we walked around Battery Point, enjoying specialist antique shops and indulging in cake and coffee at the well-patronised Jackman & McRoss. The area is quite steep, with small and lovely terraces, narrow streets and wonderful views.

There are some extremely beautiful homes and colourful gardens behind brick walls, tiny shops and narrow lanes. Then there is Arthur Circus, the quaintest roundabout we've ever seen. It circles around a park bordered with flowers and ringed with Georgian houses, like dolls houses surrounded with miniature gardens.

As we walked down the convict built Kelly Steps we looked over into Kelly's walled garden and then entered it to look at the yellow, contemporary installation - meme ii Kelly's garden, designed by Marie Sierra. She has created two large outdoor works of these 'weeds' of nature, made around the idea of the meme, which is like a vehicle for carrying social ideas or practices. Both flourish and re-seed, often in harsh conditions.

A refreshing cold beer in Salamanca Place!

In the afternoon we drove the hairpin bends up to Mount Wellington and luckily had a clear day with panoramic views over Hobart and beyond to Eagle Hawke Neck. There are a lot of Chinese tourists about in Tasmania we have noticed, mostly on organised tours.

Of course we went to the famous Salamanca Market on Saturday, along with five million other people and loved the huge variety of stalls and the innovative craft.

There was a lot of Tasmanian produce and some great buskers and we bought Beetroot Marmalade which we are tempted to eat by the spoonful it is so delicious. We ate lunch at the Blue Eye restaurant at the end of the market and had a wonderfully fresh and delicious seafood meal, served with style in a waterfront setting. Below is an art work in paper on a wall in the restaurant.

In the afternoon we took in the experience of MONA (Museum of Old and New Art), and now understand its reputation as a Hobart must-see! The contemporary building is just amazing with three levels cut into the beautiful warm sandstone which is in contrast to the dim lighting and heavy atmosphere of the gallery. The viewer enters at ground level and then immediately descends into the depths of the gloom to the lowest level, then moves up through the levels to finish at the top. Security is obvious and the collection is eclectic to say the least. A lot of it is quite confronting and thought-provoking, and all of displayed with originality. It ranges from antiquities through to cutting edge streams of data from astronomical observations. There we also two machine embroidery pieces. Cafes and bars abound inside and out and the grounds have outdoor eating and stage areas, sculptures, a jetty and a helipad.

Today the temperature hit 39c at midday but by 5pm we were in fleecy jackets, pants and furry boots. They say in Tasmania that if you don't like the weather, just wait 20 minutes!!

We started out at the farmer's market in town stocking up on strawberries, blackberries, apricots, apples and veggies straight from the farms. We sampled apple juice, home-made sausage rolls and took home berry slice. We unloaded it all, had some for lunch and went back into Hobart to St. David's Cathedral for a concert.

While we were there, a huge storm blew into the city and rattled the rafters of the cathedral so much that dust and dirt showered down on us from above. There was an enormous thud as a tree came down in the churchyard and the audience wriggled nervously while the violinist carried on. The concert was lovely with well credentialed musicians and the cathedral looked stunning with all the flowers there for their floral festival. Featured performers (FYi Lori and Margaret) were Andrew Bainbridge - continuo, Rohana Brown - violin, Jane Edwards - soprano, Amanda Hodder - piano, Monica Naselow - violin, Martin Penicka - cello and Dinah Woods - oboe. I particularly loved the Telemann sonata for Oboe, Violin and Continuo.

 

I liked this 'blessing tree' where you could hang the names of special people.

It was blowing a gale when we left the cathedral and we got wet getting to the car..... really our first heavy rain in over a month. It took us 15 minutes to drive in from the caravan park but one and a half hours to return because of the chaos caused by the storm. The were trees down and detours everywhere. Added to that the enormous crowds from The Hobart Cup Races were trying to get home and there were people in very wet suits and sagging fascinators at every turn.

When we got to the caravan park the first thing we saw was an upturned fifth -wheeler smashed to smithereens, then another overturned caravan and a camper trailer with it's canvas shredded. Most people who had their awnings out had them destroyed as well and there was debris strewn all over the place. We were relieved to see our home still standing and lucky to have wound our awning up before we left but the back window was open and we got some water in and a lot of dust and dirt, but were otherwise fine. We later retrieved our bucket from the Derwent R (but not the lid) and Glenn walked around the inlet and found our blue mat.

Apparently, this van flipped over twice before being wedged against the tree!

The last and best thing we did in Hobart was 'Louisa's Walk'. It is strolling theatre which brings to life some of the chilling history of The Female Factory.. It starts outside the Cascade Brewery and two actors cleverly recreate Louisa's journey from London where she was arrested for stealing a loaf of bread c.1840. She was transported to Hobart on a convict hulk called 'The Rajah' to serve a seven years sentence, leaving behind three boys to fend for themselves. Her story continues to the Women's factory where conditions were atrocious. Eventually she was given a ticket-of-leave, married and died at 72 years of age. Historical records tell of the Rajah Quilt which she was involved in making. It is owned by the National Gallery in Canberra and displayed from time to time.

A metal version of the Rajah Quilt.

Houses built from stone from the prison after it was no longer used as a prison. It was bought for wharehouses and saved for posterity as a result.

Next morning we had brunch with Chris and Sophie at The Aproneers at Lindisfarne. What a terrific shop that is, shelves bending under local small goods, fruit, vegetables, bread and delicious home-made fare. It was great to meet them both after hearing about them from Cush and Matt. We recognised them immediately because Chris is very like Matt and their Dad. We enjoyed a long chat and then made our way to Kettering and the ferry terminal to Bruny Island.

Girls in pink. Boys in blue!!