Millstream Chichester National Park.

There were two options for the trip from Tom Price to Millstream Chichester. One was to follow the permit road which required viewing a promotional video by Rio Tinto and which followed the railway line. The second, more picturesque, was the public road, an equally good gravel road. We chose the second and were rewarded with some wonderful scenery through the Hammersley ranges.

Behind the grader!

We were sadly disappointed on our arrival to find that the Crossing pool campground no longer allowed caravans... A pity as it was shady and peaceful and had a welcoming, deep swimming place. We moved to the next option which was Milliyanha campground which was hot and dusty and as we drove in we were met by the camp host who suggested we not unpack anything as he was on evacuation alert, due to fires in the area. There was a lot of smoke about so we decided to move on to Karratha and then Dampier.

 

 

Tom Price 21.9.12

We spent two days at Tom Price, a small mining town, surprisingly green after all the red dirt. We were impressed with the water misters which spurted fine spray into the air above head height as we walked down the main street. Very refreshing!

This very gigantic ore truck is parked at the intersection as you turn into Tom Price. It weighs c.98,000 kgs unladen and moved 23 million tonnes of ore in its lifetime.

The campground (the only one in town), was full of kids who'd come for the BMXRacing or for the T-ball competition. There were lots of expensive bikes, uniforms with team names like 'Red Sox' and very excited kids camping in all kinds of tents with their families.

We did some shopping... Another $150 for a bag of groceries.. and moved on.

 

Hammersley Gorge. 23.9.12

We spent a few hours at the Hammersley Gorge after a very picturesque drive through the ranges. We walked down into the gorge and found it full of men from the Solomom mine who were building the rail link to the main line to Karatha /Dampier which moves the iron ore. It was an RDO for them and most of them were well primed by the time we got there. They had been bussed out from their quarters, fed a wonderful seafood barbie compliments of the company and were having a great time unwinding. They jumped off the cliffs into the deep water, lolled on truck tyre tubes which they'd thrown from the lookout above and generally had a rowdy, enjoyable time. We spent some time talking to a few of them and met Kevin Borovic who played for the All Blacks in the 80's. He has Maori and Croatian ancestry and told us some very interesting things about working for Brierity, the company building the rail line.

We swam through the lovely gorge and then went in the opposite direction to a pool which was filled from a waterfall which plunged into a tiny, deep, circular and almost completely covered pool. It was extraordinary to be in it.

We left the gorge in the late afternoon and bush camped not faraway. We were joined by David, a man whose job it was to pilot the wide load vehicles. It was interesting to hear about the job and all it entailed and the training he had to do. We had a beer together under the glittering night sky and he was gone by the time we got up the next morning.

 

Broome to Port Hedland and Karijini NP.

Saturday 15.9.12

Happy birthday to our grandson Alex who is 14 today. We were lucky to talk to him on Skype this morning. How grown-up he is getting and how time flies!

We left Broome today and drove down the west coast of WA to 80 Mile Beach. The tide was low when we arrived so we walked along the beach and collected some interesting shells. People have said that the sea snakes are bad here so not many people are swimming. The fishermen are catching threadfin salmon and sharks which they say are good eating but hard to fillet because of their tough skin.

Tonight we had the most incredible sea mist. After being away from home nearly 5 mths and not seeing a drop of rain or any other moisture from above, I must say it was a refreshing change. Every uncovered surface was wet and the air cool and moist. Lovely!

Collecting shells for grandchildren

Onwards then to Port Hedland. We were impressed with the place which gets such bad press, previously from us as well. The entrance to the town is awful with mountains of salt, the ugly rail line, all the trappings of a busy port city and boggy ponds along the roadside. We drove through the town centre which is quite small and along the beaches which were extensive. A lot of landscaping, greening and upgrading of public space is being done and as we drove out to Cook Pt., which isresidential, we noticed a wide range of sporting facilities, pre schools, playgrounds and skate board ramps, all with shade provided. The yacht club was bursting at the seams with Sunday diners so we had lunch at a picnic table on the esplanade watching the boats in the bay. The coastline is interesting and the horizon has lots of shipping in the distance waiting to enter the port.

Sunday 16.9.12

Road train.

Wide Load!!!!!

We drove over 300kms today.. ..a lot for us... in an attempt to reach Karijini NP to meet Paul and Kerry. We fell short by about 50 kms and ended up in a bush camp called Bea Bea Creek which was lovely. We lit a fire and cooked lamb chops, sweet potato in the coals and beans. We ate under the huge heavens dotted with brilliant stars and kept an eye on the cattle wandering around nearby! There were at least 6 other vans in the area with us. Love it! There were fish trapped in the waterholes along the cliff base, waiting for the wet season and the birds were in great numbers in the trees. We also saw our first live snake, a green with rusty tail end about a metre long....In fact I almost trod on it trying to photograph a pair of quails.!

Bea Bea bush camp

Bea Bea bush camp

Monday 17.9.12

The drive through the Hammersley Ranges was very impressive. The rugged cliffs, rich in iron ore, were deep burgundy in the morning light, and the light green colour of the spinifex in between the rock outcrops, created a striped pattern on the mountain sides from a distance. Most unusual!

We arrived at the Karijini NP and went to the Dales campground where we found Kerry and Paul's van but they were out exploring. We set up and went to the Fern pool in Dales Gorge for a swim. We walked across the flat to the trailhead through spinifex and flowers moving in the breeze under sparse, low trees

It was a steep walk down past the Fortesque Falls and into the gorge but the pool was cool and shady. It was a very hot day so we weren't surprised that water coming over the falls was warm.

When we got back to our camp, Paul and Kerry were sitting in the shade having a cold beer so we joined them and caught up on all the news. It was good to have their company again, if only for one night. The campground is typical of National Parks with basic facilities which are toilets (pit in this case but sometimes they are combination or flush), a bore water tap, gas bar-b-que, and camp hosts who collect fees..$5.00pp. per night for seniors. Often there are showers and laundry tubs where there is plenty of water. The sites here are red dirt clearings in a sea of spinifex with low growing mulga and eucalypts to provide limited shade. All kinds of creatures harbour under the spinifex clumps in the heat of the day where temperatures are markedly lower and humidity higher.

Tuesday 18.9.12 Dales Campground.

After waving good bye to the Garnseys, we walked out of the campground, following the track markers to the rim of Dales Gorge and stood looking down into the Circular Pool, about 150 metres below. The views of the gorge were stunning and flattened trees were testament to the force and height of the floodwaters in the wet season. We walked down the very steep and rough track to the bottom and then scrambled up and down ledges of great slabs of flat rock along to the pool. It was very pretty and maiden hair ferns draped the rock face in areas of deep shade and softened the hard, angular surfaces. We had a refreshing swim in the pool and then continued the walk along the floor of the gorge. The rock strata was a lot like Zebra rock with colourful layers which included metallic blue asbestos. It was amazing to see the fibres in the asbestos layer, so separate and visible that you could pick them out with tweezers!

There were beautiful gum trees, grasses and flowers, water cascades, birds and small lizards, and deep cool waterholes, clear and clean and perfect for swimming. There were a couple of families with kids who moved from one pool to the next, noisy as coockatoos, obviously loving every minute of it. Talk about agile little rock-hoppers!

We swam again in the plunge pool below the Fortescue Falls and watched the youngbloods climb the vertical cliff face and jump into the deep water below. The pool has high tiered rock walls on three sides providing amphitheatre-like seating in a semi-circle from which to watch the action! A great day!

Wednesday 19.9.12

Our refrigerator in the van has been playing up and suddenly gave up the ghost altogether on gas. As a last resort, Glenn disconnected all the lines and we took it out, upended it, shook it, checked the jet was clear, cleaned it and reinstalled it. That seems to be the current advice from other caravaners who have had the same problems, so we will see if it's working when we get back from our walking!

The upside down fridge being 'rocked'!

 

Well we are back and the fridge is working!!.. The freezer part anyway at this stage.

Today has been exceptional. We drove 50kms to Weano Gorge in the western Karijini NP over dirt road to experience the spectacular views, precipitous cliffs and narrow passages of the gorge. The banded iron rock formations towered over the valleys and our feet burnt on the hot rocks as we made our way through the gorge. We had to take our hiking boots off and lift our packs as we waded through waist deep water over slippery rocks, sometimes scrambling along the cliff face when the water was too deep. As the gorge narrowed we came to the section before the 'Handrail Pool' where we walked with a foot either side of the fast flowing water as it tumbled towards the deep pool below. The banded rock walls on both sides were beautiful, close and steep.

At the top of the falls there is a handrail provided so we could negotiate the slippery rocks on the climb down into the pool. Footholds were bolted into the rock face and the climb down vertical, foot either side of the steel rail and a quick prayer that the engineers knew what they were doing! Below was the perfect pool, cold and noisy with the 6 French and Irish girls who had followed us down. There was a swim through a narrow passage from the circular pool to the next pool down, through more of the amazing banded rock and then a small waterfall. This gorge was an experience like no other we have had and one of our most outstanding adventures.

A great day was ended with barbecued lamb chops, interesting conversation and a bottle of red shared with Anne and Basil from NZ.

Thursday 20.9.12

Another challenging day exploring this amazing part of the country. We went to Hancock Gorge to do a difficult class 5 walk which started with an easy walk through gorge-top vegetation including flowering plants, to the trail head. Then to the gorge edge and down a vertical ladder to the floor of the gorge. The Karijini gorges differ from others in that they are entered from above because they crack into the land surface. Most others you walk into and they rise from the floor upwards!

The walk takes you through a natural amphitheatre and then into a section that rapidly narrows where we had to climb closely against the terraced cliff face, changing levels in search of footholds. The rocks walls were highly polished where water, small stones and hands had smoothed the surfaces, and the colors were many shades of reds, oranges, blues and browns. Very beautiful.

The next stage was scary! It's called Spider Walk and you'll see why. The gorge narrowed even more and the water flowing through became a racing torrent. The way through was to span the water by walking like a spider with right hand and foot on one side of the gorge and left hand and foot on the other side, and then edge forward searching for some grip on the polished walls. It was extremely taxing for a short person with only four legs I can tell you, but so worth the effort to see such a beautiful place.

 

 

 

At the end we reached the 'Kermit Pool'..... A deep, cool place where we perched on the rock ledges between swims. Beyond, there was a steep water chute down to another two pools, but they were class 6 requiring climbing/abseiling gear.

The way back wasn't so daunting having done it once successfully, so we wallowed in the calm water and talked about what we had just done! Then we moved on and sat in the sun in the amphitheatre to warm up and eat lunch. Fantastic! How lucky we are to be able to experience these amazing places!

Ww

Oxers Lookout.

From here we could see over Juction Pool which was the meeting point of four gorges. It was interesting to see the vastness of the area and the way the gorges just drop down from the earth's surface like giant cracks.

Kalamina Gorge.

This was the final gorge of the day recommended by our camp hosts Ann and John... A gentler, pretty gorge which we did late in the afternoon. From the car park it was a short walk to the rim of the gorge and then a steep downhill to a ladder. A little way along at the end of a section of cliff was a lovely waterfall and trees full of screeching cockatoos. We then turned back to go to the opposite end of the gorge and really enjoyed the lengthening shadows of late afternoon. It was so peaceful. The walk mostly followed the gorge floor with sections of flat rocks, soaring cliffs, pools and small cascades. We swam at the end, then, very leg-weary, headed back up to the car. For the second day in a row we missed showers at the Visitors Centre which closed at 4.30.... Not a problem really with all the swimming.

For the second day in a row we missed showers because we were too late back to the Visitors Centre which closed at 4.30. Not a problem really with all the swimming.

Dinner with our Kiwi friends and then a game of cards.

How we have enjoyed magnificent Karijini NP.

 

Buccaneer Archipelago 5-13 th September 2012. Cruising on the LadyM.

Wednesday 5.9.12

Happy birthday to our granddaughter Addison who is four today,

We left Broome for the start of an eight night cruise on the Lady M . We were picked up from the caravan park and taken to the boat in the early afternoon, settled into our cabin to begin the cruise of a lifetime. There are 10 passengers and 4 crew....captain Bill, first mate Max and two Belgian girls Helen and Leen. Crew and guests eat every meal together and already we feel like one big happy family. Dinner at the captain's table EVERY night!

 

 

 

The boat is beautiful, state of the art and comfortable with two dining areas, air conditioned cabins with ensuite bathrooms, a library, semi-circular bar, lounge area, kitchen and spa. We guests help ourselves to fruit, alcohol, tea, coffee and soft drinks and have access to all areas of the boat including the bridge and excepting the kitchen. (What a shame)!



On the first day and overnight we cruised north from Broome to Cape Levique and then eastwards to the Bucaneer Archipelago. The seas were calm and the LadyM cruises at 10 nautical miles per hour. We will have covered 800 nautical miles by the time we dock in Broome.

Thursday 6.9.12

Breakfast was at 7am, after which we stopped for fishing. All of us had rods and the catch consisted of 3 keepers and quite a few small ones..

This one went back!

After the fishing we went to Crocodile Creek where we swam and climbed the waterfall to a freshwater billabong which was beautiful. Then we cruised to the horizontal waterfall area and went up Cyclone Creek on the powerboat and looked at the tin shed on legs which houses young blokes from the horizontal Falls Hotel.

We went further up to see the cliff faces pushed up at amazing angles in the far distant past.

After that we watched young Tim tease the Grey Bronze sharks with bait and catch them so we could stroke them. We then climbed into the underwater cage and looked face-to-face with the sharks through steel mesh and glass. Scary!

 

 

We had a cold drink before starting our trip up the horizontal waterfall. We sat on seats on the boat which were like a hobby horse saddle with a bar at the front to hang on to and low enough to allow us to plant our feet firmly either side of the seat for balance. The boat was powered by 2x300hp motors. We all had to wear life jackets and we could see why. The ride was awesome, thrilling, and dangerous, racing through swirling, fast running water as the tide ran out through a narrow opening. It was terrifyingly fantastic and we did two runs through the narrow, 7 mtrs wide opening, screeching with fear and delight. Had to admire the skill of the pilot who was a speed freak.

Our trip to Raft Pt ended with disappointment as it was too rough for us to get out of the tender which was bouncing on the rocks. Leen,one of the Belgian staff, climbed overboard to help the others push the boat back into deeper water and disappeared suddenly. She had misjudged the depth and came up spluttering and laughing and won a mention in the 'highlights of the day'. The 'highlights' occur every night after dinner when each person, crew included, says what they thought was a highlight for them. We are never at a loss for a highlight on this beautiful trip! We will go to Raft Pt. on the way back.

Then back to the LadyM for relaxation, drinks and nibbles on the back deck. Dinner was mackerel and fried rice followed by Tiramasu for desert while watched the sharks swim back and forth behind the boat. Saw a sea snake too.


What an amazing day.

Thanks to Travacalm for my settled stomach. I'm amazed that I am loving this experience and not seasick.

 

Friday 7.9.12

Up for the usual breakfast of yoghurt, fruit, muesli, toast, juice, tea or coffee at 7am. Those who wanted to, went in the tender to put crab traps in the mangroves.. hoping to see some crocs too but there was only one small one. The floats for the traps had to be thrown high up in the trees to accommodate the 10 mtr tide. Unfortunately we only caught 3 so will have to go again tomorrow so we have enough to feed 14 of us.

The absolute highlight of the day was the trip to Montgomery reef where we saw dozens of turtles, sharks, fish,stingrays and brain coral. There are constantly flowing waterfalls off the reef at low tide, flowing into the channel as a result of the reef being submerged at high tide. The clarity of the water meant we could see the coral and all the animals clearly except where the ocean floor was very deep. The LadyM tender allowed us to get really close to everything and the cameras were clicking and whirring non-stop. It was amazing and the remoteness of the area has kept it pristine. Our skipper Bill, said that it will be listed as a marine park next year which will mean no fishing there.

Dinner was an exceptional lasagne with salad and a good red followed by delicious fruit kebabs drizzled with chocolate. The company is congenial and we all seem to be getting on well together and enjoying each others company.

Most of us had a fish off the marlin board but the catch was four sharks, a few of which we kept for bait. Sunset was stunning.

 

Saturday 8.9.12

Woke early to watch the sunrise ....Just magic as the rays spread over the rippled water with vibrant colour, lighting everything with red-gold. Sunsets are stunning every night too.

After breakfast, we went in the tender crock-hunting up Red Cone Creek. We motored through the mangroves which were amazing.... So many small inlets it was a wonder we didn't get lost. We only saw three small crocs, a Brahminy Kite, a few sandpipers. The mud flats were extensive with lots of bright red crabs dotted about like fallen flowers. It was eerie and only needed some 'psycho' style music to complement the threatening silence. We felt many eyes upon us!

After morning coffee and a cupcake, another boat went out loaded with hopeful fishermen. Everyone is slapping on the suncream and hats and being aware of the danger of the strong sun and glare. We are getting very brown.

 

The afternoon activity was a trip in the tenders to Ruby Falls... A very pretty place reached by a scramble over rocks to the plunge pool. We swam under the falls, floated on our backs and finally had a mud bath in the fine blue-grey mud. We washed off and headed back to the boat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Two of us went out with captain and First UMate to pull up the crab traps again. A total haul of 14. Craig and Glenn have been doing a lot of fishing ... Craig catching sharks and Glenn not catching anything until today when to his delight, he hauled in a shark too. Don't know where the fish are!

By 9pm everyone has retired to cabins, sleepy after busy days. The boat moored at Raft Pt. overnight until 2.30am.

 

 



Sunday 9.9.12

At 2.30 am we upped anchor and steamed on to Doubtful Bay and then between Augustus Is. and the mainland, through Pt George IV and into Hanover Bay. The cliffs of the Kimberley coast have the most amazing colours and rock formations and they light up at sunset with deep red ochre colour. The water is so blue in comparison and the beauty of it is awesome.

 

We woke to sunshine and islands all around us as we cruised through the St George Basin which holds twice the volume of Sydney Hbr. We started the day with an 18kg Mackeral on the trawling line and we watched Max deftly clean and fillet it. Breakfast was exceptional with champagne and orange juice with melons to begin with. Then followed bacon, egg, mushrooms, small snags, tomatoes and baked beans, all cooked by Bill, the skipper, a lovely, diminuative, Italian man of many talents. We sat around the semi-circular bar sipping champagne and orange while he cooked on the barbeque which is built into the bench behind the bar. And guess what? We didn't even have to wash-up!

We continued up the Prince Regent R. past Trafalgar Mountain and stopped and waited for the tide to turn so as it rose it would carry us through. While we waited we had a delicious lunch of fresh crabs which we caught the day before, salad and freshly baked bread, all washed down with a cool Sauvignon Blanc!

 

 

 

 

 

Max cooking the crab catch. We put them on ice first to put them to sleep.

After lunch we donned swimsuits and the LadyM nosed into the King Cascade Falls. Skipper Bill steered the vessel right up to the face of the falls so we could get some great photos. We all climbed into the spa and drank champagne while he backed the boat up and anchored outside the plunge pool. The falls are remarkably beautiful with water flowing down over a series of terraces which are green with ferns and mosses and tiny flowers. The rock face looks as though the segments of rock have been carved neatly into chunks and the plunge pool has lots of plants growing around the banks.

We couldn't swim in the plunge pool because of the crocs so we climbed up to the pools at the top of the falls which are crocodile free and wallowed in the warm, clear water there. We had to abseil down the final section of the walk to reach the water.

The True North cruiser was there just before us and some of their guests had flown in by helicopter to the top of the falls. Hate to think what that cost them! True North is luxury plus but carries 40 passengers so not as intimate as our group of 10.

Back to the LadyM and a soak in the spa til the nightly ritual of drinks and nibblies followed by dinner. We are now steaming back to Collier Hbr. for the night in calmer water. All tired after our big day, but very happy with this cruise.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Monday 10.9.12.

It's a bit sad to know we are now heading south on our way back to Broome.

 

After breakfast we went by tender to Sheep Island which has graves of early settlers who perished there along with their stock. Among them was Mary Pascoe who gave birth to a baby girl, the first child born in the new settlement. Mary died soon after the birth, probably from haemorrage, and the babe a few weeks later. There is a time capsule there detailing their names, ages and cause of death and a huge Boab tree heavily carved, which has stood for more than 300 years. Eventually, the remaining 25 people were rescued.

On the mainland opposite there are ruins of the settlement they built. Fresh water was 5 kms away and the soil so poor it could not support grazing as they expected. The areas is beautiful but croc infested and their existence must have been difficult in the extreme. There are pathetic remnants of china and utensils in the midst of spinifex.

 

 

Kapok flowers

 

Tuesday 11.9.12 Raft Point.

We then steamed on to Raft Point after lunch, with the lines trawling out the back but not much luck. Later, on the hand lines we caught Baracuda, thumbprints, trevally and pink perch. Glenn was happy to get a good-sized fish that was not a shark!

 

 

After anchoring some of us did the rigorous climb up Raft Pt. to see. The wonderful aboriginal art work there under over-hanging rocks. There were upside down Wadjinas, dugongs, male and female figures all well protected from thr elements in deep shade. They are not often seen as this Kimberley Coast is only accessable by boat.

The rock formations on the beach were weathered into fluid, organic shapes which were beautiful. Then back to the LadyM for happy hour and fresh fish on the barbeque. An interesting day full of Aboriginal art and history of early European settlement along the Kimberley coast.

......and more fishing!

We caught really large trevally today on hand lines off the back of the LadyM... Well Arthur did anyway... Fishing before breakfast. We steamed all day until Crocodile Creek where we had a swim. It was crowded with guests off the Orion.. a huge passenger ship with 110 guests and 70 crew. They all had to wear life jackets and the crew had set up awnings to protect them from the sun, and served cocktails. There was a saxophonist with a Spanish hat as well. It was so over the top! If they needed anything, it was a didgeridoo being played by an Aboriginal which would at least have been more culturally appropriate! There was a family too whose Dad worked in the iron ore mine on Coolum Island. To escape the crowd a few of us climbed the waterfall up to the top pool which was clear and warm and quiet! There was a bit of excitement when a water monitor swam across in front of us and climbed the bank and frightened Jacky who shouted 'croc', along with a colorful expletive!

 

Craig and Glenn with Glenn's mackerel being returned to the deep.

Back to the LadyM where we moored over a reef in Yampi Sound, in the hope of catching more fish. We fished, played Rummy Cub and had a cheese platter for nibbles on the bow while we talked and watched the sunset. The after light was spectacular with orange/purple colour spread across the horizon against a deep mulberry sky, all of which reflected on the rippled surface of the sea. Just magic!

Dinner was creamy chicken and meatball vol-au-vonts with a huge salad, followed by a rich chocolate mousse. Several hours later most people headed for bed.... 9 pm is about as long as we last after days of sun, fishing, swimming and exploring.

What a phenomenal experience this trip is!

Wednesday 12.9.12.

Our last full day onThe LadyM.

We cruised to Silica Beach for a swim. The sand was like fresh snow crunching under our feet, pure white against the milky blue ocean. The tender took us to the beach and all (except Leen, who had to do the dishes) had a wonderful soak in the calm sea. Max, second mate, stood guard with his 'croc donger', (actually the oar from the tender) while we wallowed in a group around him, trusting in his vigilance to keep us safe! I took a few photos of the wonderful rock formations at the back of the beach, so typical of the Kimberley Coast.

 

 



Glenn with brave Max who is carrying the 'croc donger'!

The lines were out behind the boat as we headed round Cape Levique and south towards Broome and every time we got a fish we radioed the bridge with a call of "fish,fish" and the engines were cut while the fish was reeled in, sometimes one each line at the same time. Most of it was tuna which kept Max busy with the filleting knives. Ate a lot of delicious sashimi at happy hour.

The seas were the roughest we had experienced and remained so all night as we moved south.

 

Thursday 13.9.12

We awoke early to find ourselves moored calmly in Broome Hbr. had breakfast and wrote in the guest book. Helen had done a printout of names contact details for us all. We packed up and watched Bill and Max expertly bring the LadyM alongside the jetty. The end of one of our most memorable adventures.

The crew L-R .......

Captain Bill, Leen and Helen from Belgium, First Mate Max with Jenni and Glenn.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once on the jetty there were photos,hugs and goodbyes before we climbed onto the bus taking us to our various 'homes'.