We bush camped at Mt. Thirsty with two other couples for company and watched the magpies and butcher birds and their babies. They weren't a bit shy and came demanding food as soon as we pulled up. That night was the first we'd had for sometime without cloud and the night sky was a vast, glittering canopy over the silent land. It was awesome.
Next morning we drove to Kambalda for the next hole. There was no one there and we just followed the directions for play. The greens were oiled sand and the fairways not mown at all. It's quite an experience playing these remote country courses which lack the funds and members needed for a groomed course.
Onwards to Kalgoorlie and what a surprise it was to drive into such an historic city. First impressions were of wide streets, magnificent pubs on all corners and wonderful civic buildings. The streets were buzzing with activity and people were everywhere. All the parking was angle parking which makes life difficult for caravanners but there was a section catering for long vehicles in a back street. We gathered the information we needed and headed to our chosen caravan park. In the afternoon we played another two holes of golf on the exceptional Kalgoorlie course. The greens were perfectly grassed and the fairways lush. The course is very organic with sweeping curves, rolling hills and valleys, and curved bunkers. Pathways wound through garden areas and the entire experience of playing the picturesque course was delightful. Next time we'll play eighteen holes. We finished the day with a cold beer in the clubhouse and a very tasty dinner.
The following day was a massive wash day ... three machine loads!!
We took a tour of the historic Bordello Questa Casa, which is Australia's oldest working brothel, and the only original one operating since gold rush days, over a hundred years ago. It is known as 'The Pink House" and is famous for its "starting stalls". They were doors the girls would open to allow the men to see them behind a grill. There they would discuss business and if there was agreement the girl would allow the man in. It was interesting to hear some of the history of prostitution from Madam Carmel, who has been there for the last twenty years. She explained the way the girls were 'contained' which meant they had to be in the brothel during working hours, could not solicit and could only go into town in the company of the Madam. They did not mix with the townsfolk. If local men wanted paid sex they had to go to the brothel in Hay Street which was the red light district with brothels along the entire length of the street on both sides, well away from the women and children of the town.
After that we went to the the KCGM Super Pit lookout to peer with disbelief into the huge open cut gold mine where the giant ore trucks looked like tonka trucks busily working below. This man made wonder can be seen from space and is the richest square mile of goldbearing earth in the world. We were told there was to be a blast at 5pm but for some reason it was aborted. We chatted to a local man who knew about the mine and he picked up small rocks from under our feet and showed us the difference between gold and 'fools gold'. That was enough to have Glenn and I fossicking in the carpark, hoping for the big nugget!
Bronze sculpture of Patrick (Paddy) Hannan, the first man to discover gold in Kalgoorlie.
Next morning we packed up and went into town to do some food shopping, stocking up on fresh fruit and vegetables for the next week and the trip over the Nullabor. It wasn't until later we remembered the strict quarantine restrictions in South Australia which prohibit moving almost all fresh produce into the protected area. Oh well.... I guess we'll have to do the 'rabbit thing' and then cook what's left!!
We camped in Fraser Range Station rest area for the night, just short of our next golf hole, on our own with a few owls for company. Love it!
10.12.12
We played another three holes of the Nullabor course and I have to say I am consistent.... just don't ask the score. Glenn is managing better than I am and had his first par today. Actually, we are really enjoying the novelty factor and the fact that it breaks the long distances across the Nullabor. The information said .... "Balladonia Roadhouse. Hole 1: Skylab Par 3 - 175m (through scrub - beware of snakes!!)". .... Gives you some indication of the quality of the fairways!
Just outside Caiguna there is a blowhole and the air coming out was really cold. The hole is part of extensive underground caves, which access the aquifer below.. Underwater divers have explored a lot of the cave system but many kilometers are still to be discovered. We ended up staying back off the road about 300m from the blowhole for the night. It was windy and very cool. Another van came in it join us just before dark.
Next morning we played the Caiguna hole, then drove to Cocklebiddy for the next, and onwards to Madura for the third of the day. We bush camped along the road and then played Eucla, Border Village and Nullabor the next day.
Border village
Between Border Village and Nullabor the highway follows the coast fairly closely and the views from the Bunda Cliffs are extraordinary. The cliffs below are part of the longest line of cliffs in the world. Head Of The Bight is one of the best places in the world to see the Southern Right Whales as this part of the Nullabor Plain coastline becomes a free range crèche between May and October.
We admired the excellent felted scarves, bags and jackets in the Visitors Centre before booking into a caravan park and luxuriating under a hot shower.
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