Wednesday June 14
Libby and Eric left today and caught the train from Rennes to Paris. The traffic in Rennes was a nightmare, with the station under renovation and surrounded by hoardings which made locating the entrance difficult. Although we'd allowed plenty of time, in the end we dropped them as close as we could and they did a 'bag-drag'. We rang them a bit later and were relieved to know they had caught their train. We had a great four weeks together and will miss their driving energy and happy faces.
We parked easily in the big carpark in the centre of the town and sat and had a coffee while we waited for the Information Office to open, accompanied by 'larger-than -life nymphs' (and friend)! The office is located in the Gothic chapel built for Saint-Yves Hospital which also holds a permanent exhibition called 'Rennes, a City of Art and History'. The decor inside and out abounds in surprising sculptures of animals and large display boards are very informative.
Glenn led us into the Cathedral of Saint Peter which was restored in the second half of the 19th century and holds many treasures including a Roman high altar and an impressive organ. The cathedral has witnessed important moments in history including the coronation of dukes and duchesses of Brittany. It's interesting to note that I used to have to drag Glenn into churches and cathedrals, but now he can't walk past one without poking his head in to check out the architecture! No surprise really as they are sacred, calm spaces in our fast-paced world, where we can rest and sit in awe and wonder.
Next on our map was The Portes Mordelaises, also called the 'Royal gate' in reference to the Dukes of Brittany, who, before being crowned in the cathedral, passed through the gate having taken an oath to defend the independence of the region. It was rebuilt in the 15th century.and has a double drawbridge. Unfortunately we caught a number of large tour groups which makes the photograph a bit difficult!
We walked through the Place Des Lices, a large square where one of the largest markets markets in France is held every Saturday morning. It was a former medieval jousting area that hosted Knight's tournaments. The local speciality - the galette saucisse (sausage in buckwheat pancake), was in evidence on menus everywhere.
We bought ice-creams and sat on the steps of the Opera House, facing City Hall and watched the world go by. Again we became aware of the tightening of security as four heavily armed soldiers on high alert, walked through the square.
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